The honest answer: you can buy a microcement kit and apply it yourself, and in most cases you will get a surface that looks close in the photos and disappoints in the room — patchy colour, trowel marks in the wrong places, a sealer that clouds or peels, and no one to call when a crack appears. Microcement is not difficult because the steps are secret; the steps are listed below. It is difficult because every one of them has a working window measured in minutes in UAE heat, the finish is made entirely by hand pressure, and the sealer is unforgiving. We are an installer, so read this knowing where we stand — but the reasoning is the same you would get from any honest applicator, and we will also tell you what you genuinely can do yourself.
How to do micro cement: the professional procedure in outline
How to do micro cement, in the order a professional crew does it: test and prepare the substrate (sound, dry, flat, loose tiles re-fixed, cracks treated); prime; tank wet zones with a waterproofing membrane; embed reinforcing mesh in the first base coat where the base could move; apply two base coats, curing and sanding between them; apply two coloured finish coats by steel trowel, which is where the cloudy movement is made; then seal with two or more coats of the correct sealer and let it cure before use. A room takes four to seven days, most of it curing. Nothing in that list is mysterious. The difficulty is in the words “correct”, “cured” and “trowel”, each of which hides a judgement that takes many floors to learn — the full build-up is on our microcement technology page.
Why microcement kits disappoint
Kits fail on four things. Timing: in a Dubai summer a finish coat can start to set on the trowel; the kit instructions were written for a European workshop. The trowel hand: the cloudy, mineral look is not in the bucket, it is in how the coat is pressed and dragged, and a first-timer’s wall shows exactly where they hesitated. The substrate: kits skip the part that decides whether the surface cracks — no mesh, no primer matched to the base, no test for hollow tiles. The sealer: the wrong grade in a shower, applied over a coat that was not fully cured, is the single most common DIY failure — it clouds, lifts or lets water into the coating, and it is a full strip-and-redo. None of this is a comment on the buyer’s competence; it is why our own applicators train on sample boards before they touch a client’s floor. Kits sold as microtopping or micro concrete are the same coating under another name, and they fail in the same four ways.
Microcement application: where a first attempt goes wrong
The mistakes are predictable enough to list. The base coat applied too thick, so it shrinks and cracks. Sanding skipped between coats, so the next one does not key. Finish coats laid in visible bands because the room was done in stages a day apart. Colour mixed by eye across two buckets, so half the floor is a shade darker. The sealer rolled in humidity, so it dries milky. A shower coated with no tanking underneath, which fails the first month. Each of these is a permanent feature of the surface once the sealer is on, and correcting them means sanding the whole thing back — which is usually the point at which people call an installer, having paid for the material twice.
What you can do yourself, honestly
Plenty, and it is worth doing. You can choose the colour and finish properly — ask for a sample made by the applicator on your own wall, in your light, and live with it for a week. You can prepare the room: clear it, remove skirtings and sanitaryware if the quote asks, and keep the space out of use for the full cure. You can maintain the finished surface, which is the part that decides how long it lasts: pH-neutral cleaner, felt pads under furniture, mats at entrances, and a re-seal every few years by the installer rather than a hardware-store product over the top. And you can vet the contractor — the seven questions in how to choose a microcement contractor are the real DIY here.
The honest verdict
If the surface is a shed floor or a garden-wall experiment and you are happy with whatever results, a kit is a cheap afternoon. If it is a living-room floor, a bathroom or a kitchen you will look at for ten years, microcement is a trade to hire, not a product to buy, and we do not sell material for DIY for exactly that reason — supply and install as one job, from AED 220/m² on walls and AED 250/m² on floors. Prices are in the microcement cost guide, and a site visit starts on our pages for a microcement contractor in Dubai, microcement in Abu Dhabi or microcement bathrooms.
Microcement DIY FAQ
What does a microcement applicator do?
A microcement applicator is the trained installer who prepares the base, builds the coats by hand with a steel trowel, sands between coats and seals the surface. Look for one who shows you finished rooms, makes a sample on your wall, explains the base and the sealer, and stays responsible for the job afterwards — how to choose a microcement contractor has the questions to ask.
Is there a microcement recipe I can mix myself?
No reliable one. Professional microcement is a factory-made system — base coats, finish coats, primers, mesh and sealer designed to work together. Mixing cement, fine sand and a bonding additive at home makes a thin cement screed, not microcement, and it usually cracks, dusts or loses adhesion.
Is a DIY microcement kit worth it?
For a small, low-stakes surface you are happy to experiment on, perhaps. For a floor, bathroom or kitchen you will live with for years, the cost of fixing a failed kit — grinding it off and starting again — is usually more than hiring an installer in the first place.
Can I put DIY microcement over tiles?
It is the hardest place to start: hollow or loose tiles must be found and fixed, the grout lines need filling and a mesh-reinforced base, and any movement shows as a crack. See microcement over existing tiles for what a professional job involves.
Not sure whether your surface is a DIY job? Send a photo on WhatsApp or call +971 4 587 7086 — we will tell you honestly.
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